At last I launch into the world of blogging - my very first attempt! At least the photo has finally appeared. As we approach winter in the southern hemisphere, my mind goes back to February 2010 and Antarctica - summer then an' all but, as you see and can guess, the temperatures were cool. What a place! The pinacle of dreams for a this inveterate traveller. And, while you're at it, take in Patagonia, preferably both sides of the Andes, best months January until March.
For the sea trip Ushuaia is the ideal departure point. Be prepared for a bit of turbulence crossing the dreaded Drake Passage. Even the four out of ten swell passage our guide told us we sailed had 30% of our passenger complement away from the dining table for the three days. For the more fortunate of us who didn't suffer sea sickness there was a feast of lectures on the wildlife; a variety of topics - Antarctica itself and its history, expeditions of note and places to see. These talks whiled away the hours between delicious 5 star meals. I certainly have to recommend the ship we went on, the Antarctic Dream, with its 80 passenger capacity. Well, comfortable with pleasant crew and guides.
The excitement of our very first iceberg gave way to more selective photos as the number increased on our journey south. Sea birds followed the ship from time to time, a myriad of petrels, an albatross or two, squads of penguins; porpoised their way across the water, no doubt in an effort to evade some leopard seal in pursuit of lunch.
The time came when the seas calmed and our twice daily shore excursions began. Swathed from head to foot in layers of clothing, wet weather gear and life jackets, we looked like astronauts waddling to their rockets, only ours 'rockets' were of the zodiac kind. The excitement of our first penguin close to hand had the cameras clicking until it almost became ho hum. I highly recommend fluorescent yellow waterproof trousers if one goes when the chicks are older. Mature Gentoo chicks are very curious and the colour proved to be a magnet. I had a few 'up close and personals.' Besides, the Gentoos, we were able to see colonies of Chinstraps and Adelies. Fur seals and sealions, Elephant, Weddell, Crabeater and Leopard seals, a variety of whales, the fauna was endless. The bird life was, of course, phenomenal. Besides the penguins, blue eyed cormorants perched on craggy rocks framed against the snowy landscape and deep blue water. Skuas on the prowl for unsuspecting chicks attracted indignation from ever vigilant parents. The odd sheathbill wander through the colonies, petrels of all varieties, albatrosses, etc., etc.
Colder days had the Zodiac motors crunching their way through the icy sea, leaving a trail of sea slurpies between ship and shore and a warm cup of soup or cocoa always greeted the returning expeditioners at reception after our climb back up the gangway stairs.After exploring the South Shetland Isles, the final day of reckoning came with a glass of bubbly as our feet officially touched Antarctica.
A zodiac cruise in the bag at Pleneau through proved a museum of ice sculptures of all shapes and sizes, fine etched lines, arches, pinacles, carved by nature over time, deep blue caves, redefined by wind and the change of seasons. Leopard seals basked aboard many, resting awhile between hunting trips. A minke whale, drawn in curiosity, played with the zodiacs, circling, surfacing from time to time for a breather. 'Over here...there, there', click, click, click. For the braver - and there were a fair few - a polar dip at Pendulum Cove proved a challenge. At least the top half was moderately warm lying in the water on the shore hugging the gritty beach ; anything below that part of the body grew progressively cooler as the icy waves broke on the shoreline and up the legs. Few actually swam; most of us just lay in the water warmed by the volcanic crater. Krill foolish enough to drift in lay cooked on the beach like barbecued shrimps.
It was with sadness we all disembarked once again at Ushuaia but Argentinian Patagonia beckoned and the Atacama Desert after that. I vowed I would return. That lecture on the Faulkands and South Georgia during the Drake crossing lingered in my mind. 'I will return,' has morphed into 'I am.' Hey, I haven't yet seen Macaroni and Rockhopper penguins, not to mention the Kings. January 2011 - here I come. Just watch this space!
